Jesse J Heap & Son, Inc. Located in Irvington, NJ
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  Top Products Rebuilt Machines Rebuilt Biasing Bias Sewing

Lever Bias Manual Sewing Unit

The lever bias Manual sewing unit contains two main components - a 60" Lever Tube Stitching Unit and a 60" Lever Spiral Bias Cutting and Winding Unit with Manual Box swivel.


Operator pulls material off the vertical roll stand, folds it in half and presents it to the sewing unit.


The Roll Stand Unit delivers the material to the Tube Stitching Unit where the operator doubles over the cloth before it enters the sewing unit.

The two edges of material are sewn together, selvage to selvage, forming a continuous sewn tube. A seam opening device located on the stitching head opens the seams of the tubular cloth and heat presses it flat. As the cloth is being sewn the selvage is automatically trimmed off and deposited into a container beneath the unit. The sewn tubular cloth leaves the machine and is neatly folded into a box.


  • Fabricated steel and cast parts
  • Singer Model 281 with edge trimmer for 1/8" pressed open seam. A new Juki #DML5200 can be provided.
  • Roll stand unit for unfolded material
  • Seam opener with indicator light which alerts operator to thread breakage or thread running out
  • Curved heater with rheostat control for temperature change
  • Roll reversing mechanism
  • Easy clutch motor
  • Electrical kit in 220 volt three phase or 110 volt

The box of sewn tubular material produced by the Tube Stitching Unit is placed into the swivel frame of the bias cutting and winding unit. The desired width of the finished bias roll is determined and the proper cutting angle is set on the unit.

The end of the tubular cloth is then drawn over the adjustable mandrel that automatically tensions the cloth. As the material is withdrawn from the box swivel onto the mandrel it is spirally cut on the bias and automatically rolled into a continuous bias roll.


  • Manual box swivel, wood accumulating box
  • Fabricated steel and cast parts
  • Steel point type core bar - customer to specify core size *
  • Steel overall roller
  • Steel drive roller
  • Steel idler roller
  • One-half horsepower blower motor
  • Expanding mandrel 96-152cm with drop extension
  • Screw adjustment to change bias angle
  • Knife trim assembly
  • Adjustable tension clutch
  • Electrical kit in 220 volt 3 phase or 110 volt

* Core size should match slitting machine


In the second operation the material which has been sewn into a tube is spirally cut on the bias and automatically rolled into a continuous bias roll.
The finished roll is then taken to the slitter where it is cut into smaller rolls of any desired width